Exactly 4 years ago on February 13th 2008, Swiss climber Ueli Steck broke the solo ascent record of the north face of the Eiger in 2hours and 47 minutes.
Watch the stunning footage of a more recent solo ascent of the Eiger’s North Face by Ueli Steck.
On his record climb Ueli Steck was wearing a Scarpa Phantom Light, a narrow and compact hybrid boot design with integrated gaiter. The boot released in 2007 was one of the first the hybrid alpine climbing boot designs, made with hard wearing textiles it offered greater flexibility with good insulation. The Phantom Lite model was replaced by the Scarpa Phantom Guide in 2009.
Although hybrid alpine climbing boots like the Phantom Lite are well protected with rubber rand and toe bumper, they don’t hold up like a leather boot. If you want a boot to last more than 1 or 2 seasons, choose one like a La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX, or a Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX instead, or a plastic boot.
For those interested in the making of the Eiger’s North Face ascent video, below is the ‘Making Of’ version of that climb.